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Exhibitions :::
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"With Gloves On..."Author: Vjera Medić |
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The theme exhibition ″With Gloves On...″ presents the gloves collection
of the Ethnographic Museum in Belgrade. It contains about 163 items,
arranged in systematic collections of traditional costumes of Serbia,
Vojvodina, Kosovo and Metohija, Montenegro, Bosnia and
Herzegovina, and the collection of urban traditional costumes. |
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A glove is a piece of clothing covering hands and fingers for warmer and
protection. As frequently worn, gloves were exposed to damage and lasted
for a short time. They were rarely found in the field, so that costumes
researchers did not record and study them very of ten. So far, they have
almost never be en displayed separately, which is one of the goals of
this exhibition. |
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The exhibition starts from the oldest item in the collection of the
Ethno graphic Museum dating back to 1820 to the latest one produced in
2004. The collection and its individual items are presented in several segments: hi story, techniques, visual characteristics and specific functions these pieces of clothing had in everyday life, on festive occasions, as well as in the wedding and Christmas customs. |
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In terms of the social categorization, they are classified as gloves that belonged to traditional costumes of the rural population and a small number of the ones included in the clothing of the rich population in the Serbian towns. These two groups of items had negligible mutual influence and developed separately. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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The gloves used in towns of Serbia and other Southern Slavic states –
Belgrade, Sarajevo, Novi Sad, Subotica, Zagubica – were a part of male
and female fashion accessories, and susceptible to changes of European
fashion styles at the end of the nineteenth and the early twentieth
century, as frequently obtained from Budapest, Paris, Vienna, Belgium.
Thus, the gloves of the top world fashion, such as Dior, were brought to
and worn in Sarajevo around 1950. |
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The gloves of the rural population in Serbia, Kosovo and Metohija,
Vojvodina, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina were an integral part
of folk costume, entirely matching trends of specific regional entities,
and particular parts of knitted foot wear and headwear. As for
materials, gloves were most frequently made of wool and rarely of goat’s
hair and leather. Most gloves were knitted. It is the system of
interweaving a single, unbroken thread by means of needle.
The knitting techniques in our region are one with one, two or five
needles. Gloves we redecorated in two ways – during the knitting with
wool of the two different colours (double-yarn knitting), or with
decorative stitches (single-yarn knitting), or after the knitting with
additional embroidery or application of various decorative details. Some
of the displayed gloves represent the very peak of visual expression of
the so-called traditional art. |
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Development of this part of the traditional costume is followed up from
the earliest writ ten source in our region on Karadjordje’s gloves from
1813, all the way to modern items in everyday equipment of mountain
stock-breeders and in the wedding customs as a part of a bride’s gifts
for members of her new family. |
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Two forms – one-finger and five-finger gloves and their variants, that is,
gloves with one detached finger – a thumb, and gloves knitted for each
individual finger – are presented, as well as their versions. The Slavic
term rukavice corresponds to both types and is spread throughout the
Serbian ethnic territory, where other terms can also be found such as
manus with the Wallachians, darza with the Albanians and eldiven with
the Turkish population. |
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| The objective of the exhibition is also the presentation of specific shapes of gloves (gloves with two thumbs), and knit ting techniques with a single, wooden needle, the so called male knitting that still exist in the vicinity of Pirot. In this regard, the exhibition contributes to activation and revival of the traditional and nearly for got ten knit ting technique. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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