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National costumes | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Urban costumes
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| Collection of town costumes contains some 1,500 of items, mainly from the territory of Serbia (ninety percent), while the rest is from Montenegro, Republika
Srpska, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, and Macedonia.
The items are organized according to type into subcollections of shirts, jelek (sleeveless embroidered coat), anterija, fistan, dresses, (čakšire) trousers and others, according to gender and age. Complete sets of male, female and children clothes make separate collection. Material is mostly from the second half of the 19th and from the first decades of 20th century. |
 Woman's oriental type town costume, Serbia, 19th century |
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| The collection contains a number of items of oriental Turkish provenance (in names, material, cut, ornamentation), since town culture, and through it the clothes of this region from the 15th to 20th century, developed under the Turkish influences. Throughout the 19th century, the time of liberation and reestablishment of Serbian state, culture of dressing (except for Voivodina which developed under the influence of central European culture) is marked by oriental, but also with western items of clothing. |  Oglavlje, Prizren, Serbia, the end of 19th and the beginning of 20th century |
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The process of setting free from oriental influences and acceptance of European fashion was gradual. Some time before the middle of 19th century in the liberated Serbia (County of Serbia) there happened the symbiosis of elements of Levant - Balkan and European fashion trends into so called Serbian town costume, which became a typical pattern of female dressing in Serbian towns. This clothes was composed of fistan (oriental textile and shaping of neckline and sleeves while proportions and base line follows the European fashion trend of the time), scarf for chest and fur coat (European)
libade, fes, and tepeluk, (oriental items of clothing). Bajader belt, jewelry (brooch, diadem, rings etc.) and obligatory fashion details (parasols, fans, gloves) were imported from the West. Male clothes were oriental up to 80-ties of 19th centuries (caksire, jelek, anterija, fes etc.), when they were replaced with European clothes (only fes was worn together with European clothes). |
 Anterija, Nis, Serbia |
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| Europeanization of female town costumes progressed gradually, by introduction of European fashion pieces (half-crinoline, skirts, blouses and others) in the last decades of the 19th century that announces the final abandonment of oriental elements and complete acceptance of European fashion trends. |  Misiraba, Prizren, Serbia |
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